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Wolfs' AGD Manifesto

 
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Wolf



Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 262
Location: Spring City, PA

PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:40 pm    Post subject: Wolfs' AGD Manifesto Reply with quote

To anyone reading this;

Welcome to my personal AGD manifesto. This is dedicated to the Airgun Designs Automag. In my opinion it is the most consistent, durable, and highest quality mechanical marker for woods and scenario play available.

Most of this writing is my own. If I borrow or copy, I do so from a public forum and will give credit where credit is due. I must say that my idea of creating my AGD manifesto came from being a member of the best website on the net for Automag owners;
www.automags.org

This post is meant to be a tribute to the Automag. This is a continual work in progress, complete with pics, links, diagrams and vids. My main focus is the Level 10 bolt set-up;

Wolfs' AGD Manifesto

Places to buy Automags;
www.airgundesignsusa.com (offical site)
www.Tunamart.com(assorted upgrades and custom built mags) local to NJ!!
www.Themagsmith.com(assorted upgrades and custom built mags)
www.logicpaintball.com(EM frame/pending completion-progress)
www.lukescustoms.com(aftermarket accesories)
http://noxx55customs.googlepages.com(custom mag rifles and parts)


AGD factory tuned Level-10 bolts start with a generic setup. (2 shims, short spring) It works for most guns, but some will need fine tuning.

Here is a vid from an automags.org mod showing how to convert your Level 7 bolt to a Level 10 bolt;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw

Below are explanations, instructions, and tips about the X-Valve, Level-10 bolts, and Automag in general;

CARRIER & CARRIER O-RING;

The proper carrier size is crucial in the Level 10 setup for optimal performance.

To identify what size a carrier actually is, look for the dots and lines imprinted on the carrier.
A line around the carrier indicates 1
A dot indicates .5
THEREFORE;
A carrier with a single dot is size .5
A carrier with a single line is size 1
A carrier with one line and a dot is size 1.5
A carrier with two lines is size 2
See the pattern...

Properly size the carrier and power tube o-ring first. The carrier with o-ring should slide onto the bolt stem without much resistance, but shouldn't slide off its own when held in a vertical position. Use the largest size carrier that does not leak. DO NOT USE the tightest carrier that still fires. Larger carrier=less friction=slightly better gas efficiency. Always use the same white power tube o-ring while tuning. If you can't get a carrier that is small enough to stop any leaking, then change the power tube o-ring and start the tuning process again.

DONíT use shims when first tuning your Level 10. This way you'll rule out that any leaks are caused by the carrier and o-ring instead of having too many shims.

SHIMS;

The purpose of the shims are to allow the bolt to reset itself in the event that it moves forward slightly and stops on an obstacle. (partially fed paintball) The number of shims actually set the point at which the bolt resets, which controls the point at which the gas vents from the bolt when it stops on a blockage like a partially fed paintball. Therefore, the chances of a static leak are increased with each shim added. This leak is often mistaken for a loose fitting power tube o-ring in too large a carrier. This is why you should remove all the shims when setting up or tweaking the Level 10.

Shims are only ever needed if your bolt doesn't recock itself after it fires and stops on a breech blockage. This occurance is called bolt stick. Test this with a squeegie in the breech. The bolt should hit the squeegie, you'll hear a cough sound from the vented gas, and the bolt will reset itself. You should be able to keep right on firing without missing a beat. If you do fire, hit a blockage, and the bolt doesn't reset, then add shims, one at a time, till the bolt consistently resets itself after hitting a blockage every time.

A constant leak out the front, when you can consistently shoot the gun, means you may have too many shims in the powertube. Remove all shims when setting up the Level 10 bolt. If it still leaks, then use the next smaller carrier with the same powertube carrier oring.

O-RINGS;

There are 3 o-rings in the powertube.

Carrier o-ring; This is the thin black one around the outside of the carrier. This one should almost never leak because it never moves and fits very tight. Lube it very lightly when putting it back in the power tube.

Cap o-ring; The white one that goes just inside the powertube tip to keep tension on the tip so it doesn't come unscrewed. It will never cause a leak.

Power tube o-ring; The small white o-ring that fits inside the carrier. When changing carriers during the tuning process always use the same o-ring. These o-rings can have slight variences from batch to batch, which is why you are given different carrier sizes to account for it. These o-rings can also wear over time due to the friction of the bolt moving through it constantly. This will cause a small leak out the front of the bolt. If this happens just drop down to the next smaller carrier to account for this.

SPRINGS;

Use the shortest bolt spring first. That way you'll know the gun actually fires. Once you have the tuning of the carrier size done, you can try out longer bolt springs and fine tune from there.

The long silver spring is stiffer than the red one. It will make the bolt move with less force than the red at the same velocity setting. The short gold spring will make the bolt move with more force at the same velocity setting.

The stiffer the spring, the gentler it is on paint. The stiffer the spring, the more force is needed to push it forward, meaning more air pressure, which equals slightly less gas efficiency. I personally use the middle spring, the red one. I've yet to chop a ball and I can shoot what my tac vest carries in ammo.

If ever your gun is gassed up, and there is pressure on the trigger, but the gun just won't fire, this is just a lack of chamber pressure. There is no name for it. Turn up the velocity or drop down a spring size and see if that helps.

You want to test your carrier and initial set-up using the smaller gold spring. Once you have determined the gun fires and doesn't leak then good, your carrier is set.

From that point chrono your gun. The spring you use should be the one that allows you to start shooting the gun at 20 fps less than your desired velocity. Since most fields are 280 fps limit, and I keep my Mag around 276ish, I shoot to have my Mag start shooting at about 255-260.

To test this start with the smallest spring in your gun, then drop your velocity down just enough to where you gun doesn't have enough input pressure to cycle. Bring up the velocity a little at a time till the gun fires consistently and measure that velocity FPS. This is the reading that should be around 20 fps lower than your desired average velocity. Test each spring in your gun so you know what spring will work effectively at your desired velocity for the day.

Example, I shoot 276ish to 280 with my red middle spring, and my red middle spring starts shooting around 255 fps. That works great outdoors. But indoors, with velocities limited to 250, the red spring is too strong for my gun to work and I must use the shortest gold spring.

To find out if you have optimum tuning, turn the velocity down until the gun won't fire. Then gradually increase the veloctiy setting until the gun fires. Note the velocity at this setting. The optimum level 10 setup is about 20 feet per second above this value. If the initial value is too low, then operating the gun at the desired velocity will cause greater impact forces on the paintballs and will effectively reduce the ability of the level 10 bolt to do its job. If that is the case, go to the next longer bolt spring, and do it again.

The short gold spring works on all setups and will allow you to shoot consistently, even at lower velocities such as indoors. The red middle spring is the best overall performer giving consistent operation and anti-chop protection. The long silver spring is the softest on paint but may not work consistently at every velocity.

MAINTENANCE;

Before you play, put 2 or 3 drops of oil in the airline going into the valve and dry fire the gun about 10 times to blow the oil through the system. Do this with the barrel off so you don't coat the barrel in oil. Good to go to play from there. IT REALLY HELPS HERE to have a quick disconnect going right into your valve. I run an elbow out of my valve onto a male quick disconnect, and run the female quick disconnect off the end of my air line to my tank adapter. This lets you get the oil right into the valve as well as letting you completely remove the valve from the gun without it dangling from your gas line.

Keep your gun clean. A damp rag will get most paint off the gun, and a Q-tip with a little rubbing alcohol will get into the corners really well.

When the day is done, I take my valve, bolt, and bolt spring out, clean them, and store them in a zip-lock bag. I do this for two reasons, one to keep the oil from evaporating so fast, and two it keeps static pressure off the bolt spring when not in use. Call me anal, but my first Classic valve went strong for 11 years on the original o-rings.

From time to time, o-rings do wear out due to friction and need replacing. Over time the bolt spring will lose it's tension and will need replaced. Also, the sear and leading edge of the bolt can eventually get worn down.

Pick up the parts kit from AGD specific to your gun. It is well worth the money as it has all the parts you need to do a complete rebuild.

RANDOM TIPS;

DaveA wrote:
Jason
I don't recall who from AGD told me this- When chronoing the RT based mags, hold the trigger back in between shots over the chrono. This apparently is the way to best emulate a hot fill during rapid fire. That's what the head tech from AGD once told me...


pigtech wrote:
That's absolutely correct on the RT chronograph procedure. It simulates the increase in velocity that you get when firing rapidly due to atabiatic compression (heating of gas from going through small channels.)

If you don't use that method of chronographing an RT, you run the risk of shooting hot when you rapid fire.


Make sure any dirt or teflon tape isn't lodged anywhere in your valve or powertube tip. These can cause a leak.

Make sure you are using an HPA air tank with a high pressure output.

It is normal to have to turn your velocity way up if you are upgrading from a Level 7 to a Level 10 bolt in a CLASSIC/AIR valve. (RT and X-Valves come standard with the higher pressure piston assembly) A leak out the back vent of your CLASSIC/AIR valve as you increase the velocity indicates a weak regulator piston assembly. The Level 10 bolt works at a higher chamber pressure than the Level 7. The older or worn piston assemblies release air before you get the pressure high enough to properly operate the valve at the desired velocity. Once you put a new piston assembly in, it will allow you to turn the velocity up to where the gun will shoot reliably without leaking out the back. New piston assemblies rated for the higher operating pressure for the Classic/AIR valves are here;

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=30&categoryID=18

Hold the trigger when gassing up your Mag. It allows the orings to seat themselves better under pressure.

The Level 10 bolt can go on a Classic AIR Valve, RT Valve, or X-Valve.


NOTE- ALL of the information (words and pics) below was cut and pasted directly from the AGD website. This is Tom Kayes' original writings explaining the Level-10 bolt operation.

LEVEL-10 BOLT OPERATION;


STAGE ONE;

The above image shows the slow speed, low pressure phase of the bolt stroke. It is very slow - about 4-6 FPS (as compared to 20 FPS for the Level 7 valve). This slow speed and low pressure makes sure the bolt will pinch rather than chop a paintball. There is an additional advantage - the slow moving bolt does not crack or bobble the ball waiting to go in.

A smaller diameter (as compared to the level 7) power piston gives the pressurized air within the chamber less area to push against. This, combined with a stronger bolt mainspring gives us the slow initial bolt force & acceleration.

STAGE ONE VENTS;

As the bolt starts its initial travel, the small vent hole in the power piston moves past the power tube o-ring. As it does so, the hole begins to vent a small amount of air which leaks out through the power tube tip, as shown in the image below. The amount of air venting is miniscule and has a very minor effect upon gas efficiency.

Why do we have the vent? If a paintball is partially in the breech, the slow moving bolt will stop on the ball, rather than chopping through it. When the bolt stops on the partially fed paintball, the power piston vent allows the pressurized gas in the air chamber to escape. Once enough air pressure escapes, the bolt spring pushes the bolt back and recocks the marker. Also at this time, the paintball drops the rest of the way into the breech and the marker is set to fire once again.

STAGE TWO;

Above we show the second stage of bolt acceleration which starts after the bolt gets past the ball stack. During this acceleration stage, the end of the power piston moves completely past the power tube o-ring. This allows pressurized air to flow into the power tube where it pushes against the larger diameter section in the middle of the power piston. At this point, the bolt accelerates to full speed - approximately 15 FPS. It is at this point where the valve goes to full power - loading the paintball into the barrel, firing, and retracting the bolt.

This second acceleration stage is very important - it allows us to maintain the high firing rate of the marker. If the bolt continued to travel at the same speed it would severely limit the firing rate. The animation at the top does not properly show the speed increase.

LEVEL 10 BOLT EXPLODED VIEW;


ULT On/Off Exploded break down pic


X-VALVE EXPLODED VIEW



THE NEXT SET OF IMAGES ARE FROM WWW.ZDSPB.COM

X-VALVE WITH LEVEL 10 BOLT


CLASSIC A.I.R. VALVE WITH LEVEL 7 BOLT


Below are images you can post in your sigs, from AO and Mcarterbrown member Going_Home



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Last edited by Wolf on Sat Aug 04, 2012 3:20 am; edited 19 times in total
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Wolf



Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 262
Location: Spring City, PA

PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is Tom Kaye, signing autographs for his loyal AGD maggers;



Whee McGee
"Now I want one of these signed..."

DevilMan
"Seriously a signed picture of TK signing pictures...... that's like gettin that tattoo of a butt on my butt!!!!!

Of course you'd think he'd be signing them with a AGD Sharpie.... Or A LVL 10 Pen!!!!"
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Last edited by Wolf on Mon Dec 14, 2009 2:40 am; edited 5 times in total
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Wolf



Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 262
Location: Spring City, PA

PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

reserved for updates
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mercenary42
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Joined: 19 Nov 2007
Posts: 561
Location: Livingston, NJ

PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 10:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is great stuff.
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